Neon LED Signs
Custom signs using laser-cut panels and LEDs
I like to make custom gifts for people. I create these signs both to improve my skills and have nice gifts.
Stanford Logo v2 - Used separated LEDs and diffusers to eliminate the dead spots from the first one I made
Dinoco Logo - Tested using separated LEDs and diffusers to allow bends
Cozy Cone - Animated with a custom driver board
Stanford Logo - the first neon LED sign I made
The Pokeball - I wanted to try using stickerbombing to make the sign look good even when turned off. The stickers in the red area are all red Pokemon, while in the white areas they are white and gray Pokemon.
Milk Pong - Used acrylic paint and 20 neon strips to create an intricate image
Grogu
Kirby
95 - Custom paint gradient from bottom to top resembling the actual logo
The Process
Custom driver board with a Metro Mini 328, MOSFETs, and an IR receiver to control the cozy cone sign
Dinoco sign prior to adding diffusers - I've switched from LEDs with integrated diffusers to having them separated to have more small details. Another benefit to this is there are less wires that have to be routed to the back of the sign as I can directly run jumpers within the slots.
In order to let the silicone glue dry for holding the diffusers in place, in tight corners I sometimes have to clamp the diffusers while the glue sets.
I traced the logo by hand in Inkscape to make the tree have smooth edges. The back layer has cable routing channels and holes for the wires to pass through
I spray painted the Stanford sign prior to gluing the layers together to ensure that it looks nice even when unpowered.
I used to use neon LEDs with builtin diffusers. The signs have slots for them to fit directly into.
The milk pong sign prior to painting - every part just glued in place.
I painted it using acrylic paint, and then added an enamel coating.
The wiring on the back can get quite dense - this sign required almost 20 individual strips to be powered.
For wire management on the backside on some signs I add wire routing slots on the baseplate.
I usually use perma-proto breadboards as power distribution boards to distribute power to all strips
On many recent signs I integrate Magic Home wifi switches directly on the back of the sign - adds smart home control without a visible dongle.